Monday, 27 October 2014

Exploring wonderful Dubrovnik, Croatia

Having had a wonderful drive from the airport the helpful receptionist (Nika) at Hotel More  (pronounced Morey) recommended us each purchasing a special tourist discount card called a "Dubrovnik Card" from the local tourist office.  She explained it was actually two cards, one gave us free travel on the buses and the other free access to museums, art galleries and "the famous city wall" (10 locations in all).  She also gave us a very useful map with the city on one side and the whole area on the other side where she planted a cross showing us where the hotel was. When in a foreign country it is always reassuring to know where you are laying your head!

Having unpacked in lovely rooms and tested out all the switches etc. we went about exploring, first the hotel and then the cliff path in front of it.  The cave bar blew our minds it was so cleverly arranged.  Then we had dinner, went for an evening stroll along the cliff path in front of the hotel and then crashed out.

The next morning after a robust breakfast we walked to the tourist office exchanged some currency and collected our Dubrovnik Cards.  A bus came along straightaway and we shoe horned ourselves onto it.  It was the rush hour.  I got chatting to a chap from the UK who had been there nearly a week and he kindly recommended some things to do and places to visit.  I was holding on too tight to write anything down but fortunately Rosalind was eves dropping and she has total recall.

When we got to the bus station just outside the old walled town it was heaving with people, apparently there were two large cruise ships in the port.  The atmosphere was magic with street performers and music and loads of food.

Having "done" a couple of art galleries and had refreshments by the little harbour we found our way up to "the wall". This goes right round the old town (as well as up and down) and you get the most amazing views and photo opportunities.  Altogether the walk round the wall is around 1.3 kilometers long. Fortunately it was not too warm.

The orange area is the old town surrounded by the wall.

View from the wall of an adjacent fort.

From the wall you look down on stunning tiled roofs.
And the marina.
 Rosalind has to be coaxed into posing.
 There was some very clever workmanship as this hand rail bracket demonstrates.

We had a lovely lunch and a pleasant bus trip back and felt we were really on holiday!

Thursday, 23 October 2014

Wonderful Holiday by the Sea in Croatia!

In order to recover from our 6 weeks babysitting in the US we consulted our travel guide (my brother Chris) and he recommended Croatia, somewhere I would have never considered!  We booked up and thankfully my mother's graduation from this life did not require us to change our plans.  Chris kindly told us which travel agent to use, what hotel to stay at and what things to do and it was all absolutely brilliant.  So to share this I am going to do a series of short posts covering booking and the hotel, what we did in Dubrovnik, trips and activities and our visit to Montenegro.

We booked with a company called Broadway Travel and a helpful adviser called Grant Lawson. We flew Easyjet from Gatwick (around 2.5 hours) and stayed at a 5 star boutique hotel called Hotel More (pronounced Morey in Croatian).  We went half board but could have gone B & B as there were lots of cheap places to eat at locally. We took Rosalind's brother John with us.
John looking at the hotel as we sail past.
The sea views from the hotel were wonderful.

The hotel was excellent, the food good and the staff friendly and helpful.  The quality of workmanship in the building was first class.  The layout was slightly complicated due to it being built down the face of  cliff but that made it interesting.
The dinning room was lovely but much of the time we were alfresco.
The kitchen had a large window enabling you to see the wonderful food being prepared.
During the construction of the hotel a cave was discovered and this has been developed into a wonderful bar.
The cave bar has a clever viewing platform that allows examination of the stalactites and stalagmites closely.  It is all beautifully executed.
I liked the sea side patio with sun loungers and tables, but best of all I could dive straight into warm deep water and snorkel watching fish until I was exhausted!  More to follow.......

Thursday, 16 October 2014

Everyone has been so kind and helpful

Being told you mother has died is not an everyday experience and even if you have been warned by the doctor that "the end is nigh" (he didn't use that expression) it still comes as a shock.  However to know that my mum was well looked after by the staff at Cherry Lodge Care Home in Caterham, Surrey and that her Doctor, Dr Chirag Patel from the Town Hill Practice, Caterham had been attending her and briefing us was reassuring. Mum always had a high regard for the British National Health Service and it served her well right to the end.

Registering mum's death at Reigate Registry Office was made easier by the kindness of the registrar Mrs J Rogers.  She introduced me to the government's "Tell Us Once" service where you contact one gov department and answer their questions and then they tell all the central and local gov depts on your behalf!  Wonderful!
Irene Elsie Mary Moe formerly Carter

As you would expect the funeral directors Francis Chappell & A G Rice, at East Grinstead have been very professional carefully explaining all the necessary procedures.

Mum will be buried next to her second husband Lucas Moe at a short graveside service with immediate family and a few close friends present. Then almost a month later, when we can get the whole family together we will hold a Remembrance Service to celebrate her life. 

My brother Chris and I count our blessings having had such a wonderful lady as our mother.
Irene and Lucas standing under the blue sign on the wall of their home in Farmington, Utah.  Mum always answered the phone by saying "Buckingham Palace" in an english accent, so their friends presented them with a sign that read "The Moes, Buckingham Palace"!

Irene served as a Temple Ordinace Worker in both the London and Washington LDS Temples.

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Travelling Abroad to Fish? Fail to prepare, prepare to be frustrated!

Whilst we all enjoy fishing in our home country, the idea of fishing abroad for some exotic, large, unusual species is very attractive.  These days, tempting, overseas fishing exploits are frequently featured on the box and are continuously featured on YouTube.  This exposure tends to whet our appetite to “pack rod and travel”.  Sadly, sometimes because we have not done our homework until it’s too late, we end up on holiday feeling fed up and frustrated looking at inviting rivers, lakes and beaches without the appropriate tackle, knowledge and license to enjoy the moment.  Having been fishing abroad for more years than I care to remember (I was born when the Dead Sea was only sick) I thought I would share some tips based on what I have learnt the hard way.

1.       Probably the easiest way to successfully fish abroad is to sign up as part of a party led by an experienced guide.  This is costly and does not completely guarantee success. One has heard of salmon trips to the Kolar Peninsular when the rivers are late thawing, or to Tierra del Fuego where it has been so windy that only fishers who brought two-handed rods can get a line out and a fish on. 

2.       If the trip is guideless you need to start preparing for the trip as soon as possible by first deciding the what, the where and the when.  Deciding on “the what” helps fix “the where” and probably “the when”.  But maybe you have the where and the when decided for you by others.  When my brother suggested I took my wife to the Canary Isles last year and she liked the idea, I immediately started checking out the fishing opportunities.  Having fixed “the where” and “the when” that will determine what you can fish for.  Many locations have “closed seasons” for certain species.  Sometimes there is the weather to contend with.  Once in April in Utah I set out to fish a large reservoir up in the local mountains and found my route blocked by a “Road Closed” sign.  On asking a local why the road was closed he responded with the simple answer “snow”!

3.       Local knowledge is worth its weight in fish!  Whilst reading travel books, fishing books and magazines or searching the internet can be helpful, nothing replaces the local knowledge of a fellow fisher.  I use two approaches to obtain detailed local knowledge.  The first is to hire a local guide.  This obviously costs but in my experience usually pays dividends so I usually hire a guide at least once every trip and definitely if I am going to a new location.  This has the following advantages:-

a.       They make sure you have the appropriate license and know the fishery rules (so you stay out of trouble).  In some parts of the world fishery enforcement officers carry guns!

b.      They are going to take you where you are most likely to catch (and you can remember where and save it as a favourite on your Sat Nav for future reference).

c.       They usually provide the transport to places you would never find on your own.

d.      If a drift boat or pontoon boat is needed they will provide that.

e.      They usually provide all the appropriate tackle, flies, etc. and sometimes even drinks and lunch.  When the guide hauls his boat onto a gravel bar, breaks out the stove and starts cooking lunch whilst you carry on fishing you know you are living the dream!

f.        They change flies for you, sometimes very frequently, until you start hooking up.

g.       They show you subtle techniques, like ways for avoiding flies dragging in cross currents.

h.      They keep you safe.  A guide advised me not to try fishing Lake Kariba from the shoreline as the crocs think you are dinner!

i.         Sometimes they even clean or fillet the fish for you and bag them up.

j.        They are good company and you make friends.  If you have had a good days fishing you tip them appropriately. 

4.       The alternative to using a paid guide is to use what I call the “please can you help me approach”.  This involves searching the web for the local fishing club web site and posting a message on their forum.  I put a message like this “Friendly fly fisher out from the UK first 2 weeks of June would appreciate tips and advice on where and what species to fish for”.  I might even mention the species such as bass, steelhead or sea run cuts.  Then I sit back and wait for some responses.  Sometimes I only get advice but on a number of occasions I get invited by a complete stranger to go fish with him.  My first experience of doing this resulted in my receiving an e mail from “Papa Fish” which stated “Meet me in Sultan at the Bakery at 6am tomorrow and we will fish the South Fork of the Sky together”.  The Sky is the Skykomish River in WA, USA and I could not resist an invitation like that.  So that was how I met up with my pal Lonnie and we have fished together every year for the last 6 years sometimes using his drift boat.
     These fishing friends can provide nearly all the benefits a paid guide provides.  I think it important to try to repay their goodwill by offering to pay for fuel, lunch etc.  I also make it clear that if they ever find themselves in the UK I will try to find them some good fishing.

5.       If you cannot arrange a formal or informal “guide” then you should seek out advice from the tackle shop local to the area you will be in.  Most will respond to your email questions prior to your arriving and will offer guiding services or just give advice. When you arrive paying them a visit as soon as possible will help you get on the water with the right kit. Take a notebook and the local map with you so you can record their advice and invest in a few flies etc. to keep them in business.

6.       As my memory is slowly drifting away I find having a written itinerary essential so I know what I am doing and the where and when.  I break each day into three parts, morning, afternoon and evening.  Here is an example of part of an actual one from 2012, the original being filled out in pencil (so I can change it easily as things develop):-

Thurs 9th
Fri 10th
Sat 11th
Sun 12th
Mon 13th
Tues 14th
Wed 15th
Thurs 16th
Fish Money Creek with LB
Fish at Carnation with E and H
Baby sitting and shopping
Fishing trip to Whidbey Island
Children to gym
Plan arrangements for Yakima trip
Get wood for tree house and rod for H
Swimming at Bean’s
Check out Rattlesnake Lake
Snoqualmie Falls with children
Fish Tolt River
Fishing trip to Whidbey Island
Fish Rattlesnake from float tube
Fishing with SD on N Fork Snoqualmie
Watch Avatar
Fish Tolt River

This might seem a bit excessive but it is the only way I can keep track of things (remember that at the start of some overseas fishing trips you are jet-lagged).  Once on a fishing road trip around Utah and Idaho I missed an appointment to drift the Snake River with a friend and his pal who owned the drift boat.  I have never quite got over that!  I also use the itinerary as a log by pencilling in notes on how successful the fishing was.

7.    It is helpful if you know the rules and regulations and many fishery authorities publish these on the web.  In the USA each State issue rod licences and the format of the licence can be a bit complicated. In fact, I think it fair to say that the whole question of fishing in the USA is a lot more complicated than in the UK. This is not surprising as States cover vast areas with a wild diversity of fishing habitat. If you go on the web and look at the Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife website you will see that their whole Sport Fishing Rules document is 135 pages long. The fresh water section is 95 pages long and deals individually with each lake and river. You can learn a lot if you have time to read it! On their web site the WDFW also publish the dates when they are stocking lakes.  Now that is very useful!

8.       For reasons already mentioned, I like to have a packing list for my fishing tackle as well as socks and shirts etc.  I really get mad at myself if I forget to take something that I end up needing.  I also tend to take a lot of things “just in case”.  Fortunately my wife usually travels light.  Having once left a rod case in the baggage collection area at Gatwick I only use “travelling rods” that can fit diagonally in a large suitcase.

Depending on the sort of fishing I intend doing, I select appropriate items from my master list (so a lot of it does not go on holiday).  Here is my master list:-

Fishing License
Plastic bags
Eye protection (Polaroid?)
Warm layers
Rods (main and spare)
Landing net
Waterproof jacket
Reels (main & spare)
Fishing trousers
Picnic Lunch
Other lines/spools
Camera + batteries
Chest waders
Sink tips
Map & directions
Thigh waders
Boat seat
Leader spools
Wading boots
Boat Drogue & G clamps
Dry flies
Fishing diary
Wellington boots
Mobile phone
Wets & Nymphs
Bass bag
Fingerless mitts
Filleting knife & glove
Lures/Salt water flies
Stripping basket
Spare clothes
Wading stick
Thick socks
Sun protection
Tool necklace
First aid kit
Insect repellent
Fly line treatment
Permission to fish
Mosquito head net
Cold box (for fish)
Fly floatant
Sat Nav
Wader repair kit
Pen and paper
Leader sinkant
Contact phone numbers
Strike indicators
Personal floatation device
Stool if bank fishing
Various glues

9.       Finally I think keeping a note book or fishing diary is desirable.  You can record your successes and failures and what you learnt.  This can help prepare you for the next trip!

     Yours truly relaxing in his float tube on Rattlesnake Lake, WA, USA.  I trust this post will help your holidays stay relaxing and not frustrating!